Categories: AgendaFashion


Silhouettes of sci-fi movies, the Miho Museum in Kyoto, the Niterói Museum of Contemporary Art in Brazil, or the Bob and Dolores Hope Estate structure that seems to have been left in the desert in Palm Springs. These are the first data I can think of when I think of Louis Vuitton and Nicolas Ghesquière. Speaking of futurism, however, Ghesquière is back in the Louis Vuitton spring / summer 2020 collection, as in the past two seasons. The last stop in the tunnel of the designer who brought back the 80s last year, this time was the period called Belle Époque and Paris of those years. Nevertheless, you should not think of horse-drawn carriages and colorful prom dresses.


What excites Nicolas Ghesquière even more in the era called Belle Époque is the romance, art nouveau and dandy spirit as we see in the designer’s moodboard. The collection takes us on a journey towards the end of the 19th century and the first 20 years of the 20th century. We do not attend a boring history lesson while accompanying Ghesquière in the time tunnel, on the contrary, with the help of artist Sophie and French graphic artist and video music director Woodkid, we embrace the romantic spirit of the period.

The collection completes the story with zigzag patterns and rainbows, lace and tulle, reminiscent of David Bowie. All this eclectic combination radiates women in art nouveau portraits to the present day. Watermelon sleeve blouses matched with hourglass pants.

Every model who stepped on Cour Carrée during the show had an orchid in his hand. Complementing the floral designs in the collection and used for accessory purposes, the orchid is almost a harbinger of spring.

Ghesquière says in one of his interviews immediately after the fashion show: “We have always been taught to avoid the past and the retro. Moreover, a constant anxiety is being tried to be imposed in today’s world. Thinking about what will happen next is also worrying. Perhaps this is why the talented Mr. Ghesquière turned his face this time into the distant past, not the space age. However, while doing this, he combined the spirit of the period with 2020 instead of being stuck in an old age.

For a well-established fashion house whose motto is the art of traveling, these journeys are essential metaphors when we go out. The reference of Ghesquière to Louis Vuitton, which was founded in 1854, with this collection, shows how much the fashion house has been attached to its roots today.


Undoubtedly all of the conversations are based on sustainability these days. The wood and wood materials used in the show were all sourced from the French forests, the Landes region. However, the point I want to underline is that 100 percent of pine wood is PEFC certified. This certificate protects the future and sustainability of forests.

Article: Aykun Taşdöner

ELLEN number is taken from Turkey in March 2020.


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